Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Dolly Varden Gully
Overview
Dolly Varden Gully is an easy snow climb up the south side of Mount Bross. It follows the upper part of Dolly Varden Gulch, the big drainage between Mount Bross and South Bross, straight toward the summit. It is Class 2 with easy snow.
This is a good first snow climb for people learning to use an ice axe and crampons. The line is obvious and the angle is gentle for most of the way. It is shorter than most routes on the peak, about 4 miles round trip with 2,900 feet of gain, if your vehicle can reach the Mineral Park trailhead.
In spring, the road is often closed about 3 miles below the trailhead, which adds 6 miles round trip. Plan on 4 to 6 hours from the trailhead, longer if you start from the road closure. Note that the summit of Bross is on private land and has been officially closed to the public for years.
Plan of the day
Start by
Before dawn, around 4 or 5 a.m. The snow should be firm when you climb it, and it softens fast in spring sun.
Turnaround
If you are sinking into wet snow, hear water running under the snow, or have not reached the road crossing near 13,400 feet by 9 a.m., turn around.
Crux
The upper gully above 13,400 feet, where it gets a little steeper and the snow may run out. You will need to choose the line with the best snow.
Route-finding
Easy. Just follow the gully north-northwest toward Bross. The only junction is low down, where the main road turns right and you go straight into the gully.
Water
Carry what you need. Melting snow is possible with a stove, and water may run in the gully, but do not count on it.
Drive Colorado 9 to Alma. In the center of town, turn onto the road signed for Kite Lake and pass through a neighborhood. After about 2.8 miles, go right on the Windy Ridge road.
Stay on this road for about 2.75 miles; it ends at parking in Dolly Varden Gulch, close to the Mineral Park mine. In winter and usually in spring, the road is closed at the old Paris Mill site about 3 miles below the trailhead. From there you walk, ski or snowshoe up the road.
RoadTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Mineral Park trailhead 11,300' · 0 mi
From the parking area, head northwest up the road and past the mine workings.
Watch for: If the road is closed lower down, you will start about 3 miles below this point.
2
Road junction 11,450' · 0.3 mi
A short way up, the road splits. The main road turns right and climbs toward the Bristlecone Pine Scenic Area. Go straight into the gully instead.
Watch for: The junction may be hidden under snow.
3
Lower gully 11,700' · 0.5 mi
Enter the gully and start climbing. Check that it is fully filled with snow.
Watch for: Water can run under the snow. If you see or hear water, think hard about whether the snow will hold you.
4
Gentle left bend 12,000' · 0.75 mi
After a few hundred feet, the gully curves slightly to the left near 12,000 feet. Keep going straight up.
5
Right turn in the gully 12,800' · 1.2 mi
Near 12,800 feet the gully bends right. From here you can see most of the rest of the route.
Watch for: Stop and look over the upper slopes to choose your line.
6
Road crossing 13,400' · 1.5 mi
An old road crosses the gully near 13,400 feet. Above here, the gully steepens a little and snow may be thin.
7
Upper slope 13,700' · 1.7 mi
You can exit the gully on its right and head straight up the slope to the summit, or stay in the gully to near 13,600 feet and then angle toward the top. Choose the most continuous snow and keep heading north-northwest.
Watch for: The direct slope often holds snow higher. Avoid patches of loose rock between snowfields.
8
Top of the slope 14,100' · 1.9 mi
The slope ends near 14,100 feet, and the broad summit area comes into view.
9
Summit area of Mount Bross 14,178' · 2 mi
Walk north across the wide, flat top. The high point sits just slightly above the middle of the summit plateau.
Watch for: The summit is private land and officially closed. The middle of the summit area is on public land, and most hikers stop there.
Getting down
The simplest way down is the same gully, while the snow is still firm. Face in on any steeper section. If the snow has softened, take extra care, since soft snow can slide and hides holes. Once back at the road junction, follow the road down to the trailhead, or to the closure if you walked up from there.
If things go wrong
The whole route is a single gully, so turning around is always easy: just head back down the way you came. If the snow gets soft or a storm moves in, descend right away. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
