Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · North Face Steep
Overview
The North Face Steep route on Mount Blue Sky is a short, steep snow climb from Summit Lake. It goes up a narrow couloir toward the left edge of the north face to a shelf, then reaches the summit ridge just below the top. It is about 2 miles round trip with about 1,500 feet of gain.
This is a Class 3 steep snow route. It is for climbers who are skilled with an ice axe and crampons. The couloir narrows between rock walls and the snow near the top gets steeper still. Only climb it when it has full snow cover.
Most parties take 3 to 5 hours. The short approach makes it a good early summer outing, but the terrain is complex and demands care.
Plan of the day
Start by
At first light or earlier. The face gets sun as the day goes on and the snow softens.
Turnaround
If the snow is soft or wet by the time you reach the small bowl below the face, or if you cannot find the couloir with confidence, turn back.
Crux
The top of the couloir above 13,800 feet, where it narrows between rocks, then opens and steepens before the exit to the right.
Route-finding
Tricky. Study the face from Summit Lake and again from the small bowl so you know exactly where the couloir is. It sits on the left side of the face.
Leave Interstate 70 at Idaho Springs (Exit 240). Follow Colorado 103 south about 13.5 miles to Echo Lake. At the entrance, show your reservation, then go about 9 miles up the Mount Blue Sky road and park in the signed lot for Summit Lake.
A reservation is needed to drive the road. The road is closed in winter and usually opens in late spring, so check its status before you go.
TundraSnow or couloirScramblingRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Summit Lake parking area 12,830' · 0 mi
Look south to see the summit and the north face. Before you start, pick out the couloir near the left edge of the face.
2
East end of Summit Lake 12,830' · 0.15 mi
Head south to the lake's east end. Leave the road and head southwest to the bottom of a wide slope.
3
Broad slope 13,000' · 0.3 mi
Go up about 500 feet toward a small bowl that sits under the north face.
4
Small bowl below the face 13,350' · 0.5 mi
Study the face again so you know where the couloir is. Put on crampons and helmet, and turn on your beacon.
Watch for: Last good spot to gear up before steep ground.
5
Traverse under the cliffs 13,500' · 0.6 mi
Go around the bowl on the left side, then traverse right toward the face. Pass beneath cliffs and rocks.
Watch for: Watch for falling rock from above.
6
Below the couloir entrance 13,650' · 0.7 mi
Turn left and climb steeper snow toward the start of the couloir.
7
Inside the couloir 13,800' · 0.75 mi
Above 13,700 feet the couloir becomes clear. Above 13,800 feet it narrows, with rock walls on both sides. Keep climbing toward what looks like a dead end.
Watch for: A fall here would be serious. Keep good form.
8
Top of the couloir 14,000' · 0.85 mi
The couloir opens a little and gets steeper. Go right and up steep snow to the exit.
Watch for: This is the steepest snow on the route.
9
Saddle on the summit ridge 14,170' · 0.95 mi
From the exit, move right a little, then go left and climb to a saddle along the summit ridge.
10
Summit of Mount Blue Sky 14,268' · 1 mi
Turn left (east), walk to the summit trail, and climb the last 100 feet to the top.
Getting down
Do not downclimb the couloir unless you are sure it is safe. A hiking descent is to follow the West Ridge route back to Summit Lake, which crosses over the 13er Mount Spalding. Keep an eye on the weather, since the ridge is open and exposed.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, you can turn around and walk back down to Summit Lake. Once in the couloir, it is often safer to keep going up to the easier summit ridge. If the snow is unstable or rocks are falling, back off before you enter it. Call 911 if someone is hurt. The road makes help closer than on most 14ers, but it still takes time.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Blue Sky we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
