Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · East Ridge
Overview
The East Ridge route follows Humboldt Peak's long, broad east ridge from the Rainbow Trail near South Colony Creek. It starts in forest, climbs through the trees to treeline, then follows the open ridge west to the summit. It is about 8 miles round trip from the Rainbow Trail junction with about 4,300 feet of gain.
This is mainly a winter and spring route. It is the safest and shortest way up Humboldt when there is snow. In summer there is no trail, and the forest section takes a lot of route-finding, so most people use the standard west ridge route then. The route is Class 2, with a narrow stretch near the top where there are drop-offs on the right.
Plan on 8 to 11 hours in winter, longer if the road closure adds miles.
Plan of the day
Start by
Before first light. Winter days are short and the snow in the trees can be slow.
Turnaround
Set a firm time, such as 12:30 p.m. in winter, and turn around then even if the summit looks close. Also turn back if wind or cold is severe on the open ridge.
Crux
Route-finding in the trees between about 10,400 and 11,800 feet, then the narrow ridge past the 13,500-foot bump.
Route-finding
Hard in the trees. Stay on the crest of the small ridge and trend west. Above treeline it is much easier, but keep an eye on the ridge's north (right) edge.
Water
South Colony Creek near the start. None on the ridge. In winter, carry insulated bottles or a thermos.
Head south out of Westcliffe on Colorado 69 for 4.5 miles, then go right on Colfax Lane. Follow it 5.5 miles to its end. Go right for 1 mile to a junction. The road is usually closed here in winter. Keep straight on the 120 Road; the 2WD trailhead is 0.3 mile ahead.
In summer, 4WD vehicles with good clearance can drive about 2.5 more miles to the signed Rainbow Trail junction near 9,800 feet. That is where this route begins. In winter, walk the road from wherever it is closed, which adds miles each way.
Trail in the treesRidgeTundraExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Rainbow Trail junction 9,800' · 0 mi
Just past the sign, turn right onto the Rainbow Trail and head down toward South Colony Creek.
Watch for: In winter, you may have walked the road to get here.
2
South Colony Creek bridge 9,700' · 0.1 mi
A small bridge takes you over the creek. Follow the trail northwest, then north.
Watch for: The trail can be hard to see under snow.
3
Leave the Rainbow Trail 9,850' · 0.4 mi
After less than 0.2 mile past the bridge, leave the trail to the left and climb about 150 feet to the crest of a small ridge. Your goal is simply to reach this ridge.
Watch for: Staying on the Rainbow Trail also gets you to the ridge farther north, but it is only longer.
4
Narrow forested ridge 10,400' · 1 mi
Go left and follow the narrow ridge crest southwest through the trees. Near 10,400 feet, start bending west to avoid steeper ground to your left.
5
Steeper, thicker forest 10,600' · 1.3 mi
The trees get thicker and the slope steeper. Climb west, then a little northwest, up the ridge.
6
Gentler slope 11,100' · 1.8 mi
Above 11,100 feet the slope eases and the way is less clear. Keep heading west-northwest. The trees become shorter and more open.
Watch for: Easy to drift off line here. Check your map often.
7
Treeline 11,800' · 2.3 mi
Head west and leave the trees near 11,800 feet. The summit is now less than 2 miles away.
Watch for: You are now exposed to wind.
8
Large flat area 12,000' · 2.5 mi
Cross a broad, flat area. A long stretch of ridge climbs ahead.
9
Summit comes into view 13,200' · 3.3 mi
Keep climbing, watching the north edge of the ridge so you do not drift too far left. Above 13,200 feet you finally see the summit, still about a mile away.
10
13,500-foot bump 13,500' · 3.6 mi
Walk west and climb over a bump on the ridge. Beyond it the ridge gets narrow, with drop-offs on the right.
Watch for: Stay back from any cornices on the north side.
11
Base of the final pitch 13,670' · 3.8 mi
Carefully follow the ridge to the base of the last 400 feet. It looks steep head-on but is not as steep as it seems.
12
Humboldt Peak summit 14,068' · 4 mi
Keep to the ridge's edge as you climb. Firm snow can fill the gaps between the rocks. Near the top, angle left through some rocks to the summit.
Getting down
Go back the way you came. Follow the ridge east, taking care on the narrow section near the 13,500-foot bump. Below treeline, stay on the crest of the ridge as it bends east and then northeast. Your tracks from the morning help a lot here. Drop off the small ridge to the Rainbow Trail, cross the creek, and climb back up to the junction.
If things go wrong
The way out is always back down the east ridge. Below treeline the forest gives shelter from wind. If wind or cold gets bad on the open ridge, go down to the trees right away. In winter, rescue is slow. Call 911 if you have signal in an emergency.
Other routes
Every way up Humboldt Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
