Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · East Ridge
Overview
The East Ridge of Kit Carson Peak starts at South Colony Lakes, the same trailhead used for Humboldt Peak and Crestone Needle. It crosses a long, high ridge over several points, including Obstruction Peak and Columbia Point, before a tricky descent and a final climb to Kit Carson's summit.
It is not the standard route. It is long and tiring, with a lot of up and down. Most of the scrambling is Class 2 and 3, and one optional line needs Class 4 moves. The hardest part is getting down the west side of Columbia Point, which needs careful route finding on ledges and gullies. It suits experienced scramblers who are fit and comfortable with exposure.
The round trip is about 14.5 miles with 5,900 feet of gain. You have to cross everything twice. Plan on 12 to 14 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3:30 or 4 a.m. You spend most of the day on high ridges, and the return has a lot of climbing.
Turnaround
Decide on Columbia Point. If it is past 10 a.m. there, or the weather is not good, do not continue. The climb out and back from there is serious.
Crux
The descent off the west side of Columbia Point: a narrow ridge, a ledge, and a gully down to the notch at about 13,700 feet.
Route-finding
Hard. The ridge needs steady route finding. The ledge system on Columbia is easy to miss.
Water
South Colony Creek and the lakes. Nothing on the ridge. Carry 3 to 4 liters.
Head south out of Westcliffe on Colorado 69 for 4.5 miles, then go right on Colfax Lane. It ends after 5.5 miles. Turn right on a dirt road and go 1 mile to a junction. Go straight up the South Colony road.
The 2WD trailhead is about 0.3 mile up, at 8,800 feet. With a high-clearance 4WD, you can drive about 2.7 more miles to the gate at 9,950 feet, where the road is closed. The trail starts at the kiosk in the main lot.
Trail in the treesTundraRidgeTalus and screeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
South Colony Lakes gate 9,950' · 0 mi
Pass the trailhead sign and cross the footbridge. Walk up the old road.
2
Humboldt trail junction 11,050' · 2.5 mi
After about 2.5 miles on the old road, turn right at a signed junction onto the Humboldt Peak trail.
3
Lower South Colony Lake 11,650' · 3.4 mi
The trail crosses a rocky area, leaves the trees, and passes through willows north of the lower lake.
4
Junction above upper lake 12,100' · 3.9 mi
Keep toward the hidden upper lake and find a junction above it. Turn right and stay on the Humboldt trail.
5
Humboldt saddle 12,850' · 4.5 mi
The trail switchbacks up a steep slope. It tops out on a saddle a little west of Humboldt Peak. Turn left and follow the ridge west.
6
Point 13,290 13,290' · 4.8 mi
Climb nearly 400 feet up a loose ridge to the top of this point. You get a good view of the rest of the route.
7
Bears Playground 13,100' · 5.2 mi
Scramble about 0.4 mile along the rough ridge, staying on or near the crest. You reach a large, flat area known as Bears Playground.
8
Obstruction Peak 13,799' · 5.8 mi
Turn right and head northwest. Instead of climbing straight up the rocks, go north a few hundred feet, then angle northwest to the ridge. Turn left on the crest and walk to the top.
9
Kitty Kat Carson 13,950' · 6.3 mi
Go west down a Class 2 ridge to the saddle. Then climb about 600 feet of steep Class 2 ground on the right side of the big bowl on the east face.
10
Columbia Point 13,980' · 6.4 mi
Go down about 50 feet on the south, then climb to the top of Columbia Point.
Watch for: Check the weather and time here. What comes next is serious.
11
Columbia west ledge 13,800' · 6.6 mi
Go southwest down a narrow ridge and watch for cairns. About 100 feet down, before a rock tower, find a small notch. Turn right, drop off the ridge, and work down Class 3 rock to the start of a long ledge. Follow the ledge west, pass the first gully, and scramble over a point to see the last point on the ledge.
Watch for: The ledge is the key. Missing it leads onto much harder ground.
12
Notch below Kit Carson 13,700' · 6.8 mi
For Class 3, go down the second gully almost to its bottom. Turn right and scramble across easier rock into the top of the South Couloir, just below the notch. The third gully is a harder option with Class 4 moves.
Watch for: The Outward Bound Couloir drops steeply north from the notch. Stay away from it.
13
Summit of Kit Carson Peak 14,167' · 7.25 mi
A rock rib blocks the way. Angle up right, climb about 80 feet, and pass through a gap in the rib. Join the standard route and climb northwest. Close to the summit ridge, cut left to reach the top.
Getting down
Return the way you came. Climb back to the notch, go up the gully and ledge to Columbia Point, then back over Kitty Kat Carson and Obstruction Peak. Cross Bears Playground, go over Point 13,290, and descend to the Humboldt saddle. Then follow the trail down past the lakes to the road. This is a long way with a lot of regain, so save energy.
If things go wrong
Before Columbia Point, you can turn back along the ridge to the Humboldt saddle and go down the trail. Beyond Columbia, the only practical way back is the way you came. Do not try to drop off the ridge into unknown gullies; many end in cliffs. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal. Rescue on this ridge would take many hours.
Other routes
Every way up Kit Carson Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
