Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · Northwest Ridge
Overview
The Northwest Ridge of Mount Lindsey is a Class 3 route that shares the approach with the standard route from Lily Lake trailhead. From the saddle between the Iron Nipple and Lindsey, instead of crossing to the north face, you stay on the ridge and scramble up it. Past halfway, a short, steep wall blocks the ridge.
It suits climbers who are comfortable on exposed Class 3 rock. You can keep it at exposed Class 3 by going around the wall on the left, or climb straight up the middle on a short Class 4 line. Compared with the standard north face route it is harder and more exposed, but the rock on the ridge is more fun.
It is about 8.25 miles round trip with roughly 3,500 feet of gain. Most people take 7 to 10 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 a.m. The ridge is slow and exposed.
Turnaround
If you are not at the saddle at 13,150 feet by about 9 a.m., or storms are building, go up the easier standard route instead or turn back.
Crux
The crux wall more than halfway up the ridge. Go around it on the left at Class 3, or climb a short Class 4 line just left of a big vertical crack.
Route-finding
Moderate. Follow the standard route to the saddle. Near 13,200 feet the trail bends east toward the north face; keep right here and stay on the ridge. After bypassing the crux, get back on the ridge soon to avoid loose ground.
Water
Streams in the valley and lower basin. Filter it. None on the ridge.
From Gardner, northwest of Walsenburg, go west on Colorado 69 for about half a mile. Make the turn west onto County Road 550 and reset your odometer. The trailhead is a little over 22 miles away. At about 7 miles the pavement ends and the road is dirt. Keep left on Forest Road 580 at 11.8 miles, and keep left again at a ranch entrance at 15.7 miles. The road narrows but is usually fine for 2WD cars with good clearance.
At about 20 miles you come to the edge of a large landslide, where the road has been rerouted. After that, a steep stretch needs 4WD. The last 2 miles to Lily Lake trailhead are rough and narrow, with some campsites along the way.
Trail in the treesTundraRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Lily Lake trailhead 10,700' · 0 mi
Follow the standard Northwest Gully route. The trail heads up the valley toward Lindsey.
2
Upper valley 11,200' · 1.2 mi
Continue up the valley trail. Keep following the standard route toward the basin below the peak.
3
Basin below Lindsey 11,800' · 2.2 mi
Leave the trees and climb into the open basin. The saddle between the Iron Nipple and Lindsey is above you.
Watch for: You are above treeline from here. Check the weather.
4
Iron Nipple-Lindsey saddle 13,150' · 3.1 mi
Climb the gully to the saddle. The northwest ridge is now fully in view. A small trail leads southeast along the ridge; follow it.
5
Leave the standard route 13,200' · 3.2 mi
Near 13,200 feet the trail bends east toward the north face. Keep right here and continue up the northwest ridge.
6
Class 3 scrambling 13,500' · 3.4 mi
The ridge gets rougher and needs Class 3 moves, most of all on the crest. Scramble over steep ground beneath the crest, drop into a notch, then climb up to the foot of the wall.
Watch for: Exposure grows as you get closer to the crux.
7
Crux wall 13,650' · 3.5 mi
Pick your line. To stay at Class 3, go around the wall on the left and then get back on the ridge right after it. For a short Class 4 line, climb just left of the big vertical crack in the middle of the wall.
Watch for: Test holds and move slowly. A fall here would be serious.
8
Above the crux 13,850' · 3.7 mi
Continue up the ridge on easier ground. The standard route is right below you.
Watch for: Do not knock rocks off the ridge. Climbers may be below.
9
False summit 14,000' · 3.95 mi
Reach the summit ridge at its northwest end, a bump often called Northwest Lindsey.
10
Summit of Mount Lindsey 14,055' · 4.1 mi
Walk southeast for about 0.2 mile along the summit ridge to the top.
Getting down
Most people descend the standard north face route, which is easier than reversing the crux wall. Follow it back down to the saddle, then down the gully, basin and valley trail to the trailhead.
If things go wrong
Below the saddle, turn around on the standard route. On the ridge before the crux, you can go back down to the saddle. Past the crux, the easiest way down is to continue to the summit and descend the standard route. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Mount Lindsey we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
