North Couloir

Overview

The North Couloir is a snow climb on Mount Lindsey in the Sangre de Cristo Range. It starts like the Northwest Gully route to the saddle with the Iron Nipple, then traverses east below the north face and climbs a couloir straight to the summit. It is Class 2 with moderate snow.

It suits climbers who know how to use an ice axe and crampons and want a snow route on Lindsey. The couloir gets steeper near the top. It is about 8.75 miles round trip with roughly 3,900 feet of gain, a bit more than the standard route because you drop and traverse before the couloir.

Plan on 7 to 10 hours round trip. The upper mountain is on private land, and a signed waiver is required.

Plan of the day

Getting to the trailhead

From Gardner, northwest of Walsenburg, head west on Colorado 69 for about half a mile, then go west on County Road 550. Set your trip meter to zero; the trailhead is a little over 22 miles away. Pavement ends at 7 miles. Bear left onto Forest Road 580 at 11.8 miles. Bear left again at a ranch entrance at 15.7 miles; the road narrows but good clearance usually gets through. You pass another ranch entrance at 16.7 miles.

Near 20 miles you reach the west side of a large landslide, where the road was rerouted. A steep section after this needs 4WD. The Lily Lake trailhead is 2 miles farther along this rough, narrow road. There are dispersed campsites along this last stretch. In early season, snow may keep you from driving all the way.

Next: the route, step by step →

The route

1. 1

   Lily Lake trailhead 10,700' · 0 mi

   Follow the Northwest Gully route south from the trailhead into the forest.

2. 2

   Huerfano River crossing 10,550' · 1.05 mi

   Drop to the river and cross it, then climb through the forest.

   Watch for: The crossing can be high and cold in spring runoff.

3. 3

   Tree line and basin 12,000' · 2.3 mi

   Leave the trees and enter the basin below Lindsey and the Iron Nipple.

4. 4

   Iron Nipple and Lindsey saddle 13,150' · 3.2 mi

   Climb to the saddle at about 13,150 feet. The north couloir is out of sight from here.

5. 5

   Drop off the ridge 12,800' · 3.4 mi

   Drop off the ridge to the east, zigzagging down to easier ground near 12,800 feet.

   Watch for: Snow on this slope can be steep. Keep your axe handy.

6. 6

   Traverse below the north face 12,900' · 3.9 mi

   Traverse east for about half a mile below Lindsey's north slopes until you reach the bottom of the couloir.

   Watch for: Watch for loose rock and ice falling from the north face as it warms.

7. 7

   Enter the couloir 13,100' · 4 mi

   Put on crampons and helmet and start up the couloir.

8. 8

   Final pitch 13,800' · 4.25 mi

   Near 13,800 feet the couloir gets steeper. Pick your line to the top.

   Watch for: This is the steepest part. A fall here could be long.

9. 9

   Summit of Mount Lindsey 14,055' · 4.4 mi

   Climb out the top of the couloir to the summit.

Getting down

You can descend the couloir if the snow is still firm. Many people instead go down one of the standard routes, such as the northwest gully or northwest ridge, back to the saddle with the Iron Nipple. From the saddle, return through the basin and forest to the Lily Lake trailhead.

If things go wrong

Before the couloir, return to the saddle and go back down the Northwest Gully approach. Once you are in the couloir, the best exit is usually straight back down while the snow is firm. If the snow softens near the top, it may be safer to finish and use a standard route down. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal; this is a remote area.

Other routes

Every way up Mount Lindsey we list, with its class.

• Northwest GullyEasy Class 3 8.25 mi
• Northwest RidgeClass 3 8.25 mi
• North Couloir this routeClass 2 8.75 mi