Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Emperor Couloir
Overview
The Emperor Couloir is a long snow climb on Torreys Peak's north face. You can see part of it from I-70. It starts from Grizzly Gulch and climbs about 2,500 feet of snow to the north ridge, then goes up to the summit.
It is a steep snow climb, Class 3 on rock. The angle increases above 13,000 feet and gets steepest near a large gray rock outcrop below the ridge. You need an ice axe, crampons and a helmet, plus good snow skills. It is much harder than the standard route on Torreys and is for experienced snow climbers.
The round trip is about 9.5 miles with 4,500 feet of gain. Plan on 8 to 11 hours.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3 or 4 a.m. It is a long couloir and you want firm snow the whole way.
Turnaround
If the snow is soft, or you are not near the rock outcrop by mid-morning, turn back.
Crux
The steep snow near the gray rock outcrop and the exit onto the north ridge.
Route-finding
Moderate. The couloir bends several times. Near 12,400 feet the upper couloir is hard to see; stay left.
Water
Grizzly Gulch creek near the start. Carry 2 to 3 liters and treat any water.
Leave I-70 at Bakerville, exit 221. Cross under to the highway's south side and start up Forest Road 189. After a little over a mile, go right on the Grizzly Gulch road.
The Grizzly Gulch road is rough and narrow. It is not suited for most SUVs. Most people park at a junction about a quarter mile up. Only small, high-clearance 4WD vehicles should go farther. At the junction, keep right and take the 189.1c road into the gulch.
Trail in the treesTundraSnow or couloirRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Grizzly Gulch junction 9,800' · 0 mi
Park here unless you drive a small 4WD with high clearance. Turn right onto the 189.1c road and walk west up the gulch.
2
Stream crossing in a meadow 10,400' · 1 mi
After about a mile, the road crosses a stream in a meadow. Keep going up the road.
3
Clearing at 11,000 feet 11,000' · 1.7 mi
About 0.7 mile past the meadow, you reach a small clearing. The couloir is in view to your left.
4
Creek crossing 10,950' · 1.8 mi
Step off the road and head down to the creek. Find a good place to cross.
Watch for: Water can be high and cold in spring.
5
Base of Emperor 11,400' · 2.3 mi
On the south side, a rocky drainage leads up to the bottom of the couloir; follow it.
Watch for: Put on crampons and helmet here.
6
First steep pitches 11,800' · 2.6 mi
The couloir starts with a couple of short, steep steps. Then it eases near 11,800 feet.
7
Couloir bends left 12,000' · 2.8 mi
You will see snowfields up to the right. Keep in the couloir where it bends left.
8
Narrow section 12,400' · 3.1 mi
Go through a narrower part. Near 12,400 feet it opens up again. The upper couloir is hidden. Rocky, confusing ground lies to your right. Stay left.
Watch for: Easy place to go off route.
9
Couloir bends right 12,800' · 3.5 mi
Above 12,800 feet the couloir turns a little right. You can now see the north ridge above.
10
Steeper snow 13,000' · 3.7 mi
The slope gets steeper above 13,000 feet and keeps steepening toward the large gray rock outcrop.
Watch for: A fall here could be long. Keep your axe ready.
11
Gray rock outcrop 13,600' · 4.1 mi
Two choices to reach the ridge: keep right and go up steep snow, or go left right before the outcrop, pass through a narrow spot, and go up steep snow to the ridge.
12
North ridge 13,900' · 4.4 mi
On the north ridge, go left and gain about 200 feet. This is where both the Dead Dog Couloir and Kelso Ridge routes top out.
13
Summit of Torreys Peak 14,272' · 4.75 mi
Climb the last short pitch to the summit.
Getting down
Descending the couloir means downclimbing a long stretch of steep snow, so only do it if the snow is still firm and you are confident. Face in on the steep parts. Other descent routes from Torreys drop into different valleys far from Grizzly Gulch, so they need a car shuttle or a long walk. Plan your descent before you start.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir you can turn around at any time and walk back down the road. In the couloir, retreat means downclimbing snow. Decide early. If the snow is soft, rocks start falling, or the weather turns, go down while you still can. In an emergency, call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Torreys Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
