Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Northwest Face / Tuning Fork
Overview
The Tuning Fork is a long snow couloir on Torreys Peak's northwest face, climbed from Grizzly Gulch. Low down it is one wide gully. Near 12,400 feet it splits into two branches, like the prongs of a tuning fork. In good spring conditions the snow can run unbroken for about 3,000 feet. It is about 10.5 miles round trip with about 4,500 feet of gain.
This is a snow climb, rated Difficult Class 2 with moderate snow. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet, and the skills to use them. You also need to judge avalanche conditions. It is much harder than the standard trail up Torreys from Stevens Gulch. It suits climbers with some snow experience who want a long, classic couloir.
Plan on 7 to 10 hours. Start early so you climb on firm snow.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 3 or 4 a.m. You want to be climbing while the snow is frozen.
Turnaround
If you are not at the fork near 12,400 feet by about 8 a.m., or the snow is getting soft and wet, turn around.
Crux
The steady, moderately steep snow in the upper couloir, and the rocks near the top where the snow may not reach the ridge.
Route-finding
Easy to the base. At the fork, choose the main (right) couloir or the east (left) couloir based on which has better snow.
Water
Streams in Grizzly Gulch along the road. Nothing in the couloir. Bring a way to keep water from freezing.
Leave I-70 at Bakerville, exit 221, and go to the highway's south side. Drive up Forest Road 189 for just over a mile, then go right on the Grizzly Gulch road. After about a quarter mile, keep right on road 189.1c and head west up the gulch.
The Grizzly Gulch road is rough and narrow. It is not a good choice for most SUVs. Many people walk it. The mileage in this description assumes you start near Bakerville.
RoadTrail in the treesSnow or couloirRidgeExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Bakerville start 9,800' · 0 mi
Walk up Forest Road 189 toward the Grizzly Gulch turn.
2
Grizzly Gulch road 10,300' · 1.1 mi
Go right on the Grizzly Gulch road. About a quarter mile in, you pass some buildings. Keep right on 189.1c.
3
Stream crossing 10,700' · 2.3 mi
Follow the road about a mile to a stream crossing.
Watch for: Stream levels can be high in spring melt.
4
Clearing near 11,200 feet 11,200' · 3.3 mi
About another mile brings you to a clearing. The couloir is visible to the south, on your left.
5
Base of the couloir 11,600' · 3.7 mi
Drop to the floor of Grizzly Gulch and walk south to a slope below the couloir. Climb it and angle toward the snow.
Watch for: Put on crampons and helmet. Decide here whether the snow is safe. Moderately steep snow starts right away.
6
The fork 12,400' · 4.3 mi
Climb to about 12,400 feet, where the left branch splits off. The east (left) branch is a little gentler and tops out a short way below the summit. The main (right) branch reaches the west ridge a little lower. Choose based on which has better snow.
Watch for: Neither branch has a big advantage. Snow cover decides.
7
Upper couloir 13,500' · 4.9 mi
In the main couloir, climb until you see the ridge above 13,500 feet. Rocks under the ridge may stick out of the snow. In the east branch, pass through a narrow choke and keep climbing. Near 13,800 feet the snow may run out, and you will need to pick a line to the top.
Watch for: Rock mixed with snow near the top. Move carefully.
8
West ridge 14,150' · 5.15 mi
From the main couloir, choose your line up to the ridge. Turn left (east).
9
Torreys Peak summit 14,272' · 5.25 mi
Walk about 0.1 mile east along the ridge to the summit.
Getting down
There is no set way down. Many climbers retrace the couloir. Only do this if the snow is still safe. Face in on the steep parts and take your crampons off before any glissade. If the snow has become soft and wet, be very careful, since slides and falls are more likely. Once down in Grizzly Gulch, walk the road back to your car.
If things go wrong
Below the fork, the way out is back down the lower couloir and into Grizzly Gulch. The base of the couloir is the best place to turn back if the snowpack worries you. If the snow turns soft or you see signs of instability, get off the steep snow as soon as you safely can. In an emergency call 911 if you have signal.
Other routes
Every way up Torreys Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
