Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
This is a snow climb. It is only safe when the snow is firm and stable, usually early in the morning in late spring and early summer. You need an ice axe, crampons, a helmet and the skills to use them. Check avalanche conditions before you go.
Snow route · Dead Dog Couloir
Overview
Dead Dog Couloir is a popular snow climb on the northeast side of Torreys Peak. You follow the Grays trail into Stevens Gulch, leave it near 12,400 feet, and climb a long snow apron into the couloir. The route tops out about 200 feet below the summit.
This is a Class 3 steep snow route. Most of the couloir is under 40 degrees, but the top can reach 45 to 50 degrees and may have a cornice. It suits climbers who know how to use an ice axe and crampons. It is much harder than the standard trail up Torreys. The trip is about 6 miles round trip with about 3,000 feet of gain.
Plan on 6 to 8 hours car to car from the summer trailhead.
Plan of the day
Start by
Very early, around 3 or 4 a.m. The couloir faces east and gets sun early, which softens the snow and loosens rocks.
Turnaround
If you are not at the couloir entrance near 13,000 feet by about 7:30 a.m., or the snow is soft or wet, turn around.
Crux
The top of the couloir, where the snow may reach 45 to 50 degrees and a cornice can form.
Route-finding
Easy. Follow the Grays trail, leave it near 12,400 feet, and head southwest to the obvious couloir.
Water
The creek in Stevens Gulch near the start. Carry 2 liters or more.
Leave Interstate 70 at Exit 221 (Bakerville). Go south across the highway to the dirt lot at the start of the Grays Peak road. This is the winter trailhead. Low-clearance cars should park here even when the upper road is open.
The summer trailhead is just under 3 miles farther. Drive up the road, stay straight at a junction after about 1 mile, and continue about 2 miles more; the trailhead sits at 11,280 feet. You will find restrooms and some campsites. In early season the upper road may still be snowed in.
TundraOff-trail, no set pathSnow or couloirExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Stevens Gulch trailhead 11,280' · 0 mi
After the bridge, take the Grays trail into Stevens Gulch.
2
Trail sign near 12,100 feet 12,100' · 1.5 mi
Follow the trail about 1.5 miles to a sign.
3
Flat area 12,300' · 1.8 mi
Continue to a flat spot and up a small hill. Torreys comes into view.
4
Leave the trail 12,400' · 2 mi
Near 12,400 feet, leave the trail and head southwest toward Torreys and the couloir.
5
Basin below the couloir 12,600' · 2.25 mi
Reach a small basin below the bottom of the couloir. This is the place to switch on your beacon and put on crampons and a helmet.
6
Snow apron 12,700' · 2.35 mi
Start up the large snow apron. It gets steeper quickly and the line ahead is clear.
7
Couloir entrance 13,000' · 2.55 mi
Near 13,000 feet you enter the couloir, and it gets narrower.
Watch for: Rocks may fall into the right side. Stay near the left side.
8
Rock outcrop 13,200' · 2.65 mi
Climb to a rock outcrop in the middle of the couloir near 13,200 feet. The slope eases a little here.
9
Bend to the right 13,800' · 2.85 mi
Keep climbing. Near 13,800 feet the route bends slightly right. Pass another rock outcrop on the right near 13,900 feet.
10
Top of the couloir 14,070' · 2.95 mi
The last snow can be 45 to 50 degrees and may have a cornice. Head toward the white rocks, keeping to their left. Climb the steepest part and exit onto the ridge.
Watch for: The steepest part of the route. A cornice may block the top.
11
Summit of Torreys Peak 14,272' · 3 mi
Go left (south); the summit is 200 feet higher.
Getting down
Do not downclimb the couloir. Walk down Torreys by its standard trail to the saddle with Grays Peak, then follow the Grays trail back down Stevens Gulch to the trailhead. Early in the season, the upper trail may be snowy, so keep crampons or microspikes handy.
If things go wrong
Below the couloir, turn around and walk back to the Grays trail. Inside the couloir, going up is often safer than going down if the snow is firm. If rocks are falling, the snow is too soft, or you see signs of avalanche danger, turn back before you enter. Call 911 if someone is hurt. This is a busy area, and other people may be nearby.
Other routes
Every way up Torreys Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
