Afternoon storm risk is the line that matters. Everything else is comfort. In summer, plan to be off the ridge before the build-up starts, not as it starts. Forecast for the summit point, adjusted for its elevation · data from Open-Meteo.
Alternate route · Kelso Ridge
Overview
Kelso Ridge is a popular Class 3 ridge scramble up Torreys Peak. It leaves the Grays Peak trail, climbs to the Torreys-Kelso saddle, then follows the ridge over rock steps, a white rock wall and a final knife-edge to the summit.
It suits hikers who have done some Class 3 scrambling and are fine with exposure. The rock is mostly solid but there are loose sections. The crux is a short, exposed knife-edge near the top. Compared with the standard trail, it is far more interesting but slower and more serious.
The round trip is about 6.75 miles with about 3,100 feet of gain. Plan on 6 to 9 hours. Most people descend the standard trail.
Plan of the day
Start by
By 5 or 6 a.m. The ridge is slow and exposed, and there is no quick way off.
Turnaround
If you are not at the 13,700-foot point by about 10 a.m., or weather is building, go back down to the saddle.
Crux
The exposed knife-edge near 14,100 feet, just before a white rock tower.
Route-finding
Moderate. The ridge is obvious, but many small choices come up. When in doubt, stay near the crest and use the bypasses noted in the steps.
Water
No reliable water on the ridge. Carry 2 to 3 liters.
Leave I-70 at the Bakerville exit (221). Go over to the south side and use the dirt lot where Forest Road 189 begins. Winter hikers start here, and so should low-clearance cars in summer.
The summer trailhead is almost 3 miles up the road. Go straight at the junction you reach in 1 mile; the trailhead, at 11,280 feet, is roughly 2 miles beyond. There are restrooms and some dispersed campsites nearby.
TundraRidgeScramblingExposed to lightning
The line is elevation, the band underneath is the ground, and the numbered dots match the steps below. Mileage and elevations are approximate.
1
Grays Peak (Stevens Gulch) trailhead 11,280' · 0 mi
Start up the Grays Peak trail.
2
Flat rocky area 12,200' · 1.75 mi
The trail passes over a level, rocky patch. Keep going.
3
Where the Kelso Ridge trail begins 12,300' · 1.9 mi
Where the main trail begins to climb left, look for a cairn and a trail heading right. Follow it north.
Watch for: It is easy to miss. Watch for the cairn.
4
Torreys-Kelso saddle 12,400' · 2.2 mi
Climb the slope to the saddle. Turn left and walk onto a small bump for a look at the ridge.
5
First rock outcrops 12,600' · 2.4 mi
Go up to the first outcrops and get around them on their right.
6
Notch and first Class 3 12,700' · 2.5 mi
Keep left of the crest as you go up into a notch. Descend a few feet, then scramble the first Class 3 rock to regain the ridge.
7
Bypass near 12,800 feet 12,800' · 2.6 mi
Follow the ridge, then drop right to go around harder ground. Regain the ridge. A wall of white rock is ahead.
8
White rock wall 13,200' · 2.8 mi
Go down to the right, then up a dirt gully that ends at the foot of the wall. Choose a line and climb it. After that, go up to the top of the point overhead.
Watch for: There is exposure to your left above the wall.
9
Point at 13,700 feet 13,700' · 3.1 mi
Drop right a little, climb another point, then continue to the 13,700-foot point. The rest of the route is in view.
10
Rock bump near 14,000 feet 14,000' · 3.3 mi
Keep to the left of big, tilted blocks and go steeply up the bump's left side.
11
Knife-edge 14,150' · 3.4 mi
Scramble to the knife-edge and cross it to the white tower. Go around the tower's right side, drop a little, then turn left.
Watch for: This is the crux. It is short but very exposed. Move slowly and keep three points of contact.
12
Summit of Torreys Peak 14,272' · 3.5 mi
Climb the last easy Class 2 slope to the top. Grays Peak is close by to the south.
Getting down
Do not reverse the ridge. The standard trail is the easiest way down. Descend toward the Grays-Torreys saddle and follow the trail back down Stevens Gulch to the trailhead. Many people add Grays Peak from the saddle before heading down.
If things go wrong
Below the white rock wall, going back to the Torreys-Kelso saddle is fairly quick. Above that, it is usually safer to finish the ridge and take the standard trail down. Do not try to descend steep gullies off the ridge. For injuries, keep the person warm and call 911 if you have signal. The standard trail is busy, so help may be close.
Other routes
Every way up Torreys Peak we list, with its class.
This describes the route in its usual season. Distances and elevations are close estimates for planning. Snow, ice, rockfall, a washed-out road or an afternoon storm can make it a very different climb. Check recent conditions the week you go and turn around when the day tells you to.
